Out of the Hot Tub and Into the Vineyard

CHANCES are, when you think Marin County, you think crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, Muir Woods, whale watching, oysters, and cheese. (If you're a little older and of a certain leaning, perhaps you think of people sitting in hot tubs eating California Cheeseburgers.)

Or, maybe you are wondering, where the heck is Marin? (Answer: It's that county between San Francisco and Napa/Sonoma.) No matter where you fall on the Marin question, you're probably not thinking wine. But, get this: There were grapes in Marin before Napa. Until there weren't.

The 1906 San Francisco earthquake sent city dwellers here, says Jonathan Pey, who owns and operates Pey-Marin Vineyards with his wife Susan. Agriculture got pushed north. The Peys, who came a little later than 1906, let's be clear, are among Marin's few winemakers who came to the area with wine business experience.

"There was some hokey stuff going on here ten years ago," says Jon complimenting the change and growth of his county's wine scene. Now, "There's a good future for pinot noir. California has enough chardonnay," he says, twirling a glass of Pey-Marin's riesling, a wine that will surprise you for the better. Or, as he puts it, "if you think California riesling really sucks, try ours."

Their 2007 vintage is a Wine Enthusiast's Editor's Choice.

"Wine can happen in Marin," says Michael Zilber, the wine buyer at Tomales Bay Foods, a Point Reyes Station organic/sustainable food organization/empire/gourmet shop that begat the more famous Cowgirl Creamery, whose cheese you can find in many an upmarket grocery store in the United States these days.

Marin's cool weather makes for a long growing season, he says. That means balance, natural acidity, and lower alcohol levels. Zilber's seeking a pouring license so you can taste some of his favorites in one location.

Until then, that convenience exists only in restaurants like Nick's Cove and the Olema Inn. There you can experience Sean Thackrey's Marin-made creations. Do it. They're extraordinary. Thackrey's legendary eschewing of usual industry constructs confuses some and delights others.

To him, though, it's all about making "delicious" wine. Sean Thackrey Andromeda (Marin pinot) is exactly that.If you're seeking a typical tasting room, Point Reyes Vineyard is one of two in the county (you need winery designation to pour for the public; most everyone is just a vineyard). And you can sleep in their inn, easier than navigating the area's twisting, signless roads. Their Blanc de Blanc is a treat.

To the north (Sonoma, actually), Willowbrook Cellars buys grapes from Devil's Gulch Ranch in Nicasio to make their Marin County Pinot Noir. This wine is worth the drive to Sebastopol where Joe Otos will charm you with his youth (at 33 he's the youngest winemaker we encountered) and philosophy.

"Sometimes it's better to be one amongst few," he says of his decision to work with Marin county grapes where merely 200 acres of pinot are planted. He makes other pinots too, showcasing "flavor profiles that vary from climate to climate." Weather changes mile to mile in these parts.

Down the street from the shared facility where Willowbrook is made (36 high-end pinot makers there), is the tasting room of Dutton-Goldfield Winery. Call ahead to see if a bottle of their Devil's Gulch Pinot Noir is open. Get there if it is. Oh, and yes - that's the same Devil's Gulch. Mark Pasternack grows grapes for many local winemakers (Sean Thackrey too). And Dan Goldfield makes wine for other local labels, such as Stubbs Vineyard.

"We're lucky to have found one another," says Mary Stubbs who runs the business with husband Tom. She pours a glass of chardonnay that's more Burgundian than Californian, and smiles, "Dan looks for vineyards with terrific fruit."

It's a small world in Marin, but the diversity and quality of product is large.

THE LOWDOWN

GO: Flying into Oakland isn't always the money saver it used to be; your best bet for fares these days tends to be SFO, where, besides the major carriers and JetBlue, you also have the option of daily nonstop Virgin America flights (www.flysfo.com). Renting a car is essential for a Marin wine tour, at least if you aim to see anything.

STAY: It's a good one-stop shopping type of experience, if not the sexiest hotel in the county - we're talking, of course, about the Point Reyes Vineyard Inn, in Point Reyes Station. Rooms from $125; two night minimum on weekends and holidays. Call (800) 516-1011 or visit www.ptreyesvineyardinn.com

EAT: Nick's Cove, an old Highway 1 roadhouse reinvented by San Francisco's Kuleto family, has pricey and appealing cottages available. Even if a stay is out of your budget, definitely come by for the restaurant, which offers great ambience, good food and a selection of Marin wines by the glass. (866) 63 NICKS; www.nickscove.com. Further south, make sure to stop by the charming Olema Inn for a few small plates - or, splurge on a bottle of the Point Reyes Vineyard Blanc de Blanc and a couple dozen chilled Hog Island oysters (415) 663 9559; www.theolemainn.com.

TASTE: For more information on where or how to taste or to make an appointment to visit (where available), contact the growers and makers directly. Dutton Goldfield: 707-823-3887; www.duttongoldfield.com. Point Reyes Vineyard: (415) 663-1011; www.ptreyesvineyardinn.com. Stubbs Vineyard: (707) 486-3152; www.stubbsvineyard.com. Willowbrook Cellars: (707) 823-0149; www.willowbrookcellars.com.

MORE INFO: One of the reasons Marin's wine industry flies under the radar is that the county has no organized tourism infrastructure. The best source of information on the various wineries seems to exist at Appellation America -- appellationamerica.com, keyword "Marin County."

Online story here: Out of the Hot Tub and Into the Vineyard